Course Material

Course Material

Hard Ice 1 Pre Course Resource

Hey all, below are a few videos that you should be looking at before the course. At this point there is no need to look at the Hard Ice 2 / 3 videos because they will just serve to confuse you. In regards to the Hard Ice 1 videos, I recommend this progression: focal points knots, knots, 3 wrap prussic and finally progress capture devices. In regards to the progress capture device video, we will only be using the ATC Guide (or Reverso) and not the other devices. Furthermore, after you get through these videos, look at the standard crevasse rescue video to get an idea of what we will be looking to achieve by the end of the course. Also, this crevasse rescue contains many valuable skills like abseiling and ascending, so make sure to pay close attention to those parts of the video as we will be doing those during the course.

Focal Point Knots // Overhang, Figure 8, Clove, Twist and Magic X

 

 

In this video you will find various focal point knots including: the Overhang, Figure 8, Clove, Twist and Magic X. We will also discuss the pros and cons of using each and at the end, I will give you my recommendation.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous acti

Knots: Overhand, Figure 8, Clove, Munter, Double Fishermans, and Munter Mule with Overhand Finish

 

 

 

In this video you will see demonstrated a few different type of knots including: the Overhand, Figure 8, Clove and Double Fishermans. You will also see a munter and how to mule the munter with an overhand finish. We will finish off with muling a carabiner.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.

3 Wrap Prusik with the HollowBlock and 7mm Cordelette

 

 

In this video you will see how to make a 3 wrap Prusik utilizing both a HollowBlock and 1.5 meter length of 7mm Cordelette. You will also get an idea of the pros and cons of both materials in regards to their use as a Prusik.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.

Progress Capture Devices: ATC Guide, Prusik Minding Pulley, and Micro Traxion

 

 

In this video you will see 3 different progress capture devices including: ATC Guide, Prusik Minding Pulley, and the Micro Traxion. You will learn of the pros and cons of each system and my recommendations for use.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity

 

Understanding and Reading Weather for Guides…Based in Iceland

 

 

 

This video has two main points that are covered, the first is understanding weather in general and the second is understanding, as a guide in Iceland, how to read and articulate the forecast on a very basic level.

6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue

 

 

 

In this video you will find the standard 6:1 drop loop crevasse rescue utilizing the ATC guide, Petzl Mini pulley, and 2 Prusik’s to ascend the rope. Note, before the pulley is added to the mix, you should perform the rescue without the device.Also, the pulley does not have to be put down by the victim, it can be placed at the ‘don’t forget me knot’ in the 3:1′ where it will serve the same purpose.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.

Hard Ice 2 / 3 Resources

Below you will find some videos for the various skills you learned (or will learn) on your next Hard Ice courses.

Ice Climbing Assist and Rescue with 5:1 MA System

 

 

In this video you will find the three steps for assisting and then rescuing an ice climber during a tour. We start with the vector, moving to the 3:1 assist and finishing off with muling the munter (with an overhand finish) and hauling the client out of the crevasse.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.

FAST 6:1 Drop Loop Crevasse Rescue

 

 

In this video you will find a 6:1 Drop Loop system utilizing the Micro Traxion and Petzl Mini pulley. This type of rescue should be built upon after you understand all the components of the standard crevasse rescue using the ATC Guide and 2 Prusik’s to ascend the rope.

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.

FAST Ice Climbing Rescue using Micro Traxion

 

In this video you will find a quick way to rescue an ice climber utilizing an extended focal point and Micro Traxion. As noted in the video, the Micro Traxion can cause catastrophic rope damage if there is any type of shock load. Before you use this device, it is imperative that you understand the risks associated with its use. Also, this device is not a belay device, so when you are doing the haul, the climber is not assisting you in any way. The climbers rope should have constant tension.

 

Also, take note that this video does not replace training from a professional guide. This video assumes that you have already went through the proper courses and are just seeking a refresher. We do not take responsibility for any injury that may result from this inherently dangerous activity.